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Anatoli boukreev comes off as an intransigent Russian guide who doesn t help clients and irresponsibly refuses to use supplementary o2.while mr Krakauer slept and no other guide, client, or Sherpa could master the strength courage to leave the camp.Mr boukreev made several solo forays into a blizzard in the dark at 26,000 feet to rescue three climbers near death.Mr.boukreev is routinely criticized for descending ahead of clients Although Mr.krakauer grants Mr Boukreev certain sttength, he never paints the big picture of one of the most amazing rescues in mountaineering history performed single handedly a few hours after climbing Everest without oxygen.Mr.boukreev has topped already six of fourteen 8000peaks total seven times mt Kanchenjunga two times , many of them solo without o2.Having already done Everest twice ,he foresaw problems with clients nearing camp, noted five other guides four Sherpas on the peak , and positioned himself to be rested hydrated enough to respond to an emergency His heroism is not a fluke.And I personally wonder after climbing Everest making g several solo rescue attempts from camp 4 how come he summit mt Lhotse on may 17 it was a fastest solo climb.its semms almost a childplay for Mr Anatoli when I read about his Lhotse climb just after the everest trazedy.He was build for high altitude mountaineering no doubt about that.And his return to Lhotse summit must have given peace to his disturbed soul as he couldn t rescue his friend Mr.scoot Fisher.And it was also very sad that scoot misjudged his strength perished just around balcony.I also mourn later on when I read Mr Anatoli lost his life attempting mt.Annapurna.it was such a loss to the sport mountaineeringRIP salute sir.your life was strong.The guys who have read into thin air I recommend this book to them to know how the things are from Mr Anatoli perspectice, in which situation how he made rescue attempts particularly how what kind of character he holds.Thank youNote only nanga parbar, Annapurna gasherbrum I was yet to achieve for him. Anatoli Boukreev s first hand account of the worst human disaster in the history of Mt Everest will hold listeners spellbound A top rated guide and high altitude climber, Boukreev dictated the raw and powerful details of this ill fated trek from memories and notes recorded just five days after the catastrophe In May of ,people went up the mountain, but onlyreturned As two commercial expeditions climbed the world s highest peak, poor planning, miscommunication, and an unpredictable blizzard conspired to defeat them Although the author made it back to the safety of his tent, he defied his own pain and exhaustion to go back up the mountain His rescue attempt saved the lives of three climbers The events of those two fateful days prompted researchers at MIT to develop new technology that could prevent the recurrence of such a disaster Narrators Richard M Davidson and Nelson Runger sensitively convey the full scope of a drama and a tragedy the world hopes never to see again I bought this book as follow up reading, having finished Jon Krakauer s Into thin Air It was not because I was interested in Anatoli Boukreev s version of events against that of Jon but because I was moved by the tragic May 96 Everest expedition Jon s book impressed me immensely for it s power and eloquence of writing This book s narration is not so taut The first 100 pages or so are just describing the preparation for the expedition and the final 150 odd pages dedicated to Jon Anatoli dispute that caused furore But this elaborate style of narration did impress me in patches when it came to describing the actual events of the fateful day Read this book if you are interested in the very finer details of the expedition. To understand this book, it must be read in conjunction with Into Thin Air whose author was one of the successful climbers on that tragic day, but whose account is like a Hollywood story where he got the script, especially of the most crucial hours when the tragedy was playing out the NEXT morning AFTER hearing about it from other people The Climb puts things in perspective with Anatoli Boukreev s personal account of the disaster Boukreev was saving lives all the while that the author of ITA and so many others were sleeping through exhaustion His feat of saving three lives of ANOTHER climbing team all of Boukreev s clients survived speaks volumes of his commitment under impossible conditions No one before or since has been able to match up to Boukreev s courage He deserves to be remembered as one of the greatest climbers of all time This book is a must have. It is essential to read this alongside, or before, or after, Jon Krakauer s book, to give a broader picture of the events of 1996 although I have learnt most about the mistakes made from Kasischke s After the Wind there is a prolonged effort to answer Krakauer s criticisms, and fair enough, I would if I thought I had a legitimate beef, and if all the slanging leaves you cold, you don t have to read it The meat of the book is about Boukreev and his experiences of 1996, and it s fascinating and well written, although a little disconcerting to read his thoughts transcribed in effective English, and then to come upon his true voice, where his English is less able but a great deal better than most people s Russian There are than one side to most coins, and it would be unfortunate to assume that any one account of that fateful year is the entire story, so this is essential reading alongside Krakauer and others The one bit that didn t illuminate much for me was the transcription of the participants post mortem I found that a bit long winded. Not being a climber I bought this book after seeing and enjoying the film Everest This is a factual account of what happened in 1996, and is a step by step breakdown of the tragic events that unfolded in 1996 I am a scuba diver and reading this book reminds me of all the lessons I have been taught about what we call the incident pit, small problems at the start if not dealt with become larger and larger, the lack of communication devices in the team, the issue with the O2, the number of teams attempting the summit on the same day, the varying levels of experience of the climbers, the lack of communicated turnaround time, and the difference in mentality and management between a paying guest and an expedition team member all simple issue that could have been rectified, but then coupled with the horrendous weather the climbers faced ended in tragedy, this can happen in scuba diving with divers not being dived up, not having the correct experience and overly reliant on either the boat crew to sort out every problem or the dive guides buddys I have learnt so much from this book about re thinking plans and how to communicate effectively with team members when we go on dive expeditions, for that reason alone I would give it 5 stars.As to Anatoli, I think he comes across as a professional climber having to deal with a commercial climbing expedition, in the best way he could and trying to help as much as he could, I cannot disagree with any decisions he took and he is the sort of person you want on an expedition, self reliant but a team player as well.